Category: Bagan


Woke up quite early even for Busan time but just waited because it was too early. Woke up for real around 7:45 for breakfast just after 8:15 of toast with butter and strawberry-sugar jam, watermelon and tea and terrible coffee.

Left around 9 for a day for temples. I can’t begin to describe how beautiful they are. When you think it’s the same as the last you will find something new. Pictures hardly do it justice. Many you can climb to the top via steps or find your own way (climb).

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One where I could see the tallest temple (that you could not climb) had 4 Buddha’s (like most) but the main one was original except the hair, the next original but it was black more recently turned gold via donations, the next was teak wood with original body and the last was new because of fighting in the 70s. This was seen after an AMAZING lunch at Be Kind to Animals. Mostly Indian flavors but with Myanmar tourists. Next to us were a hilarious Sigapourian-Indian couple who got all the recipes. I had a wrap which was more of Dhal with a tortilla around it which you needed a knife and fork for. Magda had a Bagan special dish that was the best of the group using a special leaf (curry). I decided the spiciness of low because it was so hot out. Also had lime soda. 5,000 kayat.

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It started to rain a bit around 3:30 so we stayed in the biggest temple hoping it would stop but it did not so we went onto the main road back, stopping once to check out some deserted temples and walk to one where you climbed the outside. Koreans were there! Then it really started to rain (5:00?) so we headed back and arrived around 5:30 to be soaking wet L shower was silly but washed my underwear (from squatters with no toilet paper) and sweat handkerchief.

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Had dinner at wonderful Tasty which had Nepolise food which I’ve never had was quite good. Lime-Ginger-Juice for 800 and 10 veggie dumplings with soup and spicy sauce for 2,500. Just soup was 1000 it took quite a while but you knew it was fresh because you could hear the chopping and frying.

Woke up at 6:30 to be ready at 7:00 but found out the bus will come to me after 7:30. Oh well. Our bus got stuck in mud for about 30 minutes a truck got stuck when it pulled over to try and help us. We went through beautiful mountains and forests but the road was so twisty I almost got sick. Almost got sick also because an old lady was smoking on the bus (cloves). Lunch was horrible veggies and rice with no flavor.

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Met Sophie and Magda on the bus from Mandalay (Germany and Poland) who were also solo and we decided to stay at Shwe Na Di Guest house for 2 nights for 40 total (13.33 each). It had AC and fan and breakfast and no bathroom.

Went outside while Sophie had tea and rented a bike with Magda for 2000 kayat for 2 days and set off! Well first we tried to get a better map (than the one in Lonely Planet) but ‘BEST Information’ had no one inside. We took Nyaung U Kyaukpadaung Rd towards the airport turning west and going north toward Bagan Viewing Tower but that is private and cost 15000 kayat to go up. No thanks.

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We then then backtracked to nearly the main road, turned the other way and went to a small temple, met a nice monk at a small monastery who spoke really good English and said we were going the wrong way. Oh well. Went somewhere different!

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We then walked to a bigger monastery with caves that people had made for the monks which were a bit creepy dark inside. There I bought 10 postcards for 2000 kayat. After we saw Leimyethna Pahto, Payathonza (which the monk said was really 3), Tayok Pye Paya, Thambula Pahto, Kyat Kan Kyaong, and Nandamnnya Pahto and many more which I’m sure lonely planet cannot fit in the book (again, we were using Lonely Planet).

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For some we had to go through the monks fields (which the monk we spoke to said was fine) and dense spikey brush. My legs burnt a bit for days. I’m sure I saw some that many other foreigners haven’t because of this.

A man in an official looking blue shirt pointed us to one quite far away because the paintings on the walls inside were original. After getting there it was amazing, especially because the paint was original. Hardest one to get to I think. None of the Burmese tourists went that far.

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We met two nice girls, one spoke great English and guided as to her restaurant for water. I think we would have gone there anyway because we thought it was the right direction to get home and it was only 2 minutes away. 400 kayat for water there. She told us the white pagoda (last for the day) was the main one for her village for 6000 people. It was the wrong way, but they helped us get back.

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After water at her shop we headed back going past the watch tower again and seeing our mistake–don’t go down the gravel road to the hotels and tower, keep going straight from the main road.

Missed the hostel because of a delivery truck.

Shower was cold but that’s fine.

Went to dinner next door and it wasn’t great—neither was the beer but it was better than Cass (Korean beer). My prawn curry had unshelled prawn and the green beans were bland. Only 15000 kayat for 3 meals (each with multiple dishes) and 4 beers though.